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I have to say that the double sweep tool seems like overkill for that shape, but then maybe you were just trying to illustrate it being used which is fair enough. For that particular shape, just starting with a cylinder and scaling each cross section would get you to the same result.
I illustrated it's use for others as well as my own selfish reason... to have it shown later in the thread. I agree for some lampshades which have straight sides... this one is designed to have curved sides. I've edited the possibilities of it's use and by linking back to your earler explainations and examples found Here.
I've posted the final versions of the CarrarArtist Logo to the main Carrara discussion where hopefully all will see them. See CarrarArtist Logo if anyone wants to take a peek. :)
You can do a curved profile by scaling the middle cross sections appropriately...
I've tried doing it that way about a year ago but wasn't quite satistied with my poor attempts. While I have grown a lot better, knowing more tools,... perhaps I should re-visit that method. Would you later use Ruled Surface to join each section? Perhaps even adding Smoothing afterwards?
No, I would start with a cylinder, and progressively scale sections of it - don't have too many sections (you can always smooth it later). Let's say you have a cylinder with top, bottom and two section in between. Select the top three (ie all but the bottom) and scale down, then select the top two and scale a bit more, and then finally just the top one. You should be able to make a good match for the profile you want, then smooth if required. (You could also use the Edge tools to add extra cross sections should you need them, without adding any more to the circular cross-section.
Thanks Phil. That's a great way to scale the cross sections.
Crazy John's Objects - An Egg: You might notice I don't call it good yet. This was my first attempt... been meaning to make one for quite some time... so decided to let everyone else go along for the ride. :)
As shown in the pics it was started with a simple square... I wanted to play with the Ruled Surface tool. It's good to use tools that I hardly ever use in order to remember how they work... good thing I use Ruled Surface... I messed with it first early last year, never saving anything I did with it... this time I even noticed, learned a few few things which are mentioned in one of the pics.
This covers:
Since the resulting egg can be improved with a few adjustments and perhaps another section or two I'll give it at least one or more tries this way... then I move on to starting with a standing rectangular cube then a cylinder... perhaps even a sphere... I'm aiming for the easiest way while ending in all quads, no triangles.
Feel free to let me know if you notice something wrong... I can easily make changes... even if just spelling/grammer. Also don't hesitate to mention any way I might improve how I present these... won't hurt my feelings. :)
I've just updated This page... added a link for Holes without using boolean.
At the risk of boring people by showing the same piece I started on a long time ago I've posted some new images on the Hexagon thread for the model - a WW2 armoured car.
Yesterday I got inspired to try (yet again) to finish this because it's bugging me now.
So some progress in assembling parts and making new ones.
https://www.daz3d.com/forums/discussion/54998/a-military-vehicle-i-started-work-on-thread-resurrected-june-2017/p2
Marcus Severus - so glad you posted an update. Impressive engine.
Many thanks, Diomede, for commenting because you and others have given me encouraging feedback before on this effort and I dont want to keep showing it if people have seen enough.
But I've made some progress this evening - a few more bits have found their final resting place!
I'll put the latest picture here and on the Hexagon thread and then will continue on the Hexagon forum rather than interrupting here with it.
The engine in this image is just a proxy.
Thanks again.
Everyone should also read back in your thread to see how impressive the Armored Millitary Vehicle is... open Page 1.
I've updated DAZ Pay tutorials for Carrara. PhilW's - Infinite Skills videos are currently no longer sold at DAZ... see my links page Here for more info.
I've also added a few more YouTube links on the same page.
Tip: Ever wonder why your model looks a bit odd or wonky? Chances are that you may have the size a bit different. When modeling from memory sometimes you remember the original a bit different. If it is something in your house or have access to you could simply take a few measurements and and best to also take at least one pic. For an abstract object this doesn't apply of course. So what to do if you want to be more precise? Well you could ask here. There are other sources also... see below for two.
Resources for sizes, drawings, blueprints and more can be found many places. I'll often use Google but there are many other sources.
Check out The-Blueprints for more than just blue prints... they are free and were mentioned in the Car modeling video I just added a link to.
If you folks would like to have more sources listed I can add them here or create a new thread... just let me know what to do.
Question(s): How accurate can a 3D model be without stepping on any copyright, trademark boundaries?
This is meant for PA products, mostly, and also for Personal Use objects also. I assume that personal objects can be used in a render here or anywhere... but I'm often wrong.
I'm asking for all other modelers... Oh... and my own selfish reasons also
[edited for grammer/spelling and clarity]
15% different comes to mind from somewhere, although how you'd measure that I have no idea. My suggestion would be to look at some of the cars in the store and compare them to the originals. Auto makers are notoriously protective of their IP . . .
Tim, thanks. You're input is greatly appreciated and valued. I wonder... does this also apply to Architectural structures like your building products?
What do you mean by IP? All I can think of at the moment is Product or International Product... likely waay off base.
Perhaps I should also ask in the main Carrara discussion? I'm hoping to get more opinions/advice on this.
Intellectual Property.
Crazy John's Objects - My first and Wrong Eyeball: How not to model an eyeball. I've also thrown in a few positive tidbits, good to know things, for anyone new to Carrara or the Vertex modeler... or any other modeler.
While I call this attempt Wrong it did work out. I should have instead modeled a round eyeball instead. This one would work easily on a flat surface.. say a wall or a cube... but even then it couldn't be simply rotated without showing it's flat back... what was I thinking??... Hah... I wasn't.
The second pic shows a question I had... seems that I've figured it out on my own as explained there and next pic.
My final is just a simple render... got some work to do on shaping and more on Shaders.
Feel free to let me know if you notice something wrong... I can easily make changes... even if just spelling/grammer. Also don't hesitate to mention any way I might improve how I present these... won't hurt my feelings. :)
Modeling is Funnnn!
If doing an eyeball I would start by loading a sphere in the Vertex Modeller, and rotate it so that the "pole" is facing the front rather than the top. The other thing to note is that you are going to need at least two layers, one for the iris/pupil and one for the cornea. Daz eyes also have two layers on the schlera, one for the actual schlera (which joins with the iris and pupil) and one for eye wetness which joins with the cornea, and I think this makes sense.
I'd thought about a shpere at first.. but thought I'd approach it differently... shoulda went with a shpere. I'm thinking that you mean by layers to create different polymeshs for the iris/pupil... I'd think that each should be seperate so that the iris could grow or shrink to create a large or small pupil or rather lens opening. Of course... the outer schlera would normally be transparant with some shininess and prehaps a tiny bit of reflectivity.
I'll have to take a peek at your Bright Eyes Bundle, others I have as well as Daz Original eyes and catch a few tutorials... as soon as I have my Carrara Challenge project finished.
Bright Eyes only puts maps into the reflection surface of the eyes, nothing more. It does not change the geometry. It bugs me that Daz eyes by default are much flatter than they should be - they have included a Cornea Bulge parameter for generations, but it is always set at 0 by default - even with the latest G8F! And even that isn't quite physocally correct. But one of the first things I do (when I don't forget) is to set it to maximum, it adds a lot to the realism of eyes and the reflections/catchlights in them.
Thanks for pointing out the maps only and also the Cornea bulge problem with DAZ eyes... which is a must to have from the onset... not something that needs to be set. I was thinking yesterday to grab the centermost polys of eye, at Cornea area to bulge, and use soft select to to create the bulge... can always create 2 morphs for More Bulge or Less Bulge, flatter.
That's why you need two "layers" - flatten the front of the inner one to be the iris/pupil - or even make ot slightly concave to catch the light - and bulge the front of the outer surface to be the cornea. Set the cornea material to be water (or close to that, maybe look to increase the refraction index a little bit).
I'm still considering 3 layers at least, possibley 4. Pupil would be re-sizeable or just a bit of movement in/out.. for small/large. Will have to to to mirror with flashlight to see how this would effect iris size... might want to make iris separate or at least a diff shader domain from cornea... but as I look at a side view for Anatomy of Eye... I see that iris/pupil set back away from Cornea and Sclera which are nearly identical but provide a teensy bit of thickness as well as both have the bulge while iris/pupil are round. Any way I attempt my 2nd try I'll likely over model it
Refraction ehh... hadn't crossed my mind yet.. thanks for that.
BTW: I just fould where to change bulge... set it to 100 and didn't notice a difference on G2F.
I'd just create a morph for the pupil size. Could also have one to move it in and out, making the (connected) iris flat or concave. Shader domains on the actual eye for schlera, iris and pupil. The outer layer comprising cornea and wetness layer could just be the one shading domain.
Setting Cornea Bulge to 100% makes it closer to being physically correct, you will mostly see this in reflections, but that will depend on your materials and also having something in the scene to reflect, particularly with something bright in it, such as an HDRI.
As I thought... I was trying, in head, to overmodel. Shader domains are very like my 1st try at a Toonlike eyball... which I had too many domains... should have used morphs for pupil size as well as flat and concave. Was thinking about it this morning a bit to make simpler/less polys.
As you describe I will only need 2 spheres... with your shader domains and morphs descriptions.
A few things that I just thought of is adding an additional morph to the pupil for a Cat's Eye look... and for a Toon Eye add another morph for stretch effect as seen in cartoons, for example... when a pretty gal walks by.
Just updated This post, the 2nd one with links. Added Selling elsewhere besides DAZ Shop? which speaks of bundling your products for sale at DAZ... applies to both Carrara and DAZ content.
Forgot to mention...
I also changed all, I hope, links to open in a different window. Please let me know If I missed any. :)
I've unlinked PhilW's Infinite skills tutorials since they no longer lead to a product you can buy. Check the Changes to Infinite Skills Carrara Training thread to learn more and get other ways to obtain them.
I've added Animation in Carrara Video Tutorials by PhilW to my list of links under Animation.
Crazy John's Objects - Veggi Crate: Making this for current challenge... hoping to get it all done in time. Thought I'd show a pic of the crate's progress. Started today... First Inserted 3D cube, entering dimensions and setting to 2 divisions to give me a centerline for looping. I made a side board first... naming all domains for the outer/inner faces, top/bottom edges and then the end edges. Afterwards I used Extract around it's center lines to place polylines very near each corner edge at sides and ends.
Now I only had to make 3 duplicates for for the other sides. Cool thing is that all the sides retained same domain names... it is important to Rotate each board so the domains face the correct directions.
Next I will add 2 thin boards for the bottoms... add 4 upright triangular inner corner pieces ... a few nails for end and bottom boards.. and I off to the Shader room to play there.
Note: The center lines used for Extract Around can be Dissolved since they are no longer needed. I also need to first double check dimensions and make end boards thinner. Just occured to me that it would be easy to make a temporary very short cube with the correct outside or inside dimensions to be sure all side boards are located correctly.
BTW: I modeled this in a Small scene since it shows inches instead of feet. I'd looked in Preferences but could not find where to change to inches... I may have overlooked the setting.