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Thanks.
Yes, the feet were one issue that I was looking at fixing. I moved the terrain around and fit the feet to the new area a little better than I did the first time. I think it's "good enough", but I don't 100% love where the right foot is at. I might play with it a bit more.
Doing something with the hair is another thing (long hair seems like a pain to deal with when your figure isn't 100% standing straight and tall). I swapped out one hair for another, which seems a bit more manageable.
I think the clothing/armor needs some work. I wish I figured out how to make the shaders & whatnot work how I wanted, but that will take more trial & error.
I think it's 90% there now. Thanks for all the comments, everyone!
Thanks.
Yes, the feet were one issue that I was looking at fixing. I moved the terrain around and fit the feet to the new area a little better than I did the first time. I think it's "good enough", but I don't 100% love where the right foot is at. I might play with it a bit more.
Doing something with the hair is another thing (long hair seems like a pain to deal with when your figure isn't 100% standing straight and tall). I swapped out one hair for another, which seems a bit more manageable.
I think the clothing/armor needs some work. I wish I figured out how to make the shaders & whatnot work how I wanted, but that will take more trial & error.
I think it's 90% there now. Thanks for all the comments, everyone!
Looking good so far. Best of luck to you this month.
Thanks.
Yes, the feet were one issue that I was looking at fixing. I moved the terrain around and fit the feet to the new area a little better than I did the first time. I think it's "good enough", but I don't 100% love where the right foot is at. I might play with it a bit more.
Doing something with the hair is another thing (long hair seems like a pain to deal with when your figure isn't 100% standing straight and tall). I swapped out one hair for another, which seems a bit more manageable.
I think the clothing/armor needs some work. I wish I figured out how to make the shaders & whatnot work how I wanted, but that will take more trial & error.
I think it's 90% there now. Thanks for all the comments, everyone!
I like it. You fixed the dueling shadows on her right leg and adjusted the scabbard trim to be more contrast with the background as well.
I didn't change anything about the pinups yet but I have thought about a solution for my two renders in one problems.
That locker room would need some more refinement, such as some tags on the walls, and if you konw about any poster prop freebies let me know, would be better that just putting simple planes, but I might come up with a gimp based solution for that.
Let me hear what you think.
@ scott, thanks for your comment. Ok that would be geometry shells now, never worked with that bevore but there is some time til the end of the month to use on learning something new, I guess
Thanks.
Yes, the feet were one issue that I was looking at fixing. I moved the terrain around and fit the feet to the new area a little better than I did the first time. I think it's "good enough", but I don't 100% love where the right foot is at. I might play with it a bit more.
Doing something with the hair is another thing (long hair seems like a pain to deal with when your figure isn't 100% standing straight and tall). I swapped out one hair for another, which seems a bit more manageable.
I think the clothing/armor needs some work. I wish I figured out how to make the shaders & whatnot work how I wanted, but that will take more trial & error.
I think it's 90% there now. Thanks for all the comments, everyone!
Very nice, that looks like she is really standing on that rock. That hair is looking fine to me, but yes Hair moving ist rather limited, hat that problem as well.
I like that you made her breasts look natural but maybe it helps the impression if you push her cleavage up somewhat.
Very creative solution!
You know, it would be nice to throw some spot lights onto the pinups, like lighting in an art gallery. I like that the motorcycle is in the composition as well.
I'm not sure I like that the window is so large and the posters are so small relative to the size of the entire image.
Perhaps there's a better concept for the setting of the posters? How about a Ducati showroom?
Have a wall with the two posters (lit up like an art gallery), and then the motorcycle on the showroom floor in-between the two.
Of course, the window helps obscure any defects in the quality of the motorcycle model that you'd need to manage. So, in that case, if you need the window to make the motorcycle easier to manage in the image, then keep the motorcycle outside the window :)
Thanks for commenting on my Morgan Ironwolf image.
Realism wasn't a top concern for the model, incidentally. The base model was Ambie, which is an Aiko 6 figure... and I mostly chose it for fidelity to the original Morgan Ironwolf, who is somewhat "Barbie doll"-ish. I didn't touch that part of the model, so thanks for the observation, in any case.
In any case, I played with the breasts (in a PG sort of way!) so that they're riding higher, and in slightly different positions than they were. I think I'll play with them some more, now that I'm looking at them more closely.
Anyway, I finally fixed the clipping problem between the bottom of the chainmail hauberk & the skirt. I think I have the hair a little more how I want it. I changed the lighting a bit more (stuck the Iray sun settings onto the Distant Light, as I read in the Iray thread). I changed the camera settings a bit to see what they did (depth of field, or whatever).
Maybe I'll mess around with the Iray shader settings on the surfaces that will accept them. I still want to mess with lighting as well.
Here's a list of some freebie frames for your "art" plus a couple freebie shaders (metallic and glossy) for retexturing the one you like best. I think this is a great solution, but I second the idea that the images should be a little more prominent in the final render. I was thinking... what if it was a motorcycle dealership that had the pinups on the wall? Just a random thought.
Picture Frame by yucelyilmaz
http://www.turbosquid.com/3d-models/picture-frame-obj-free/714537
(note- download the obj file version, unzip, and use import to get it into your scene
Poser Frames by Structure
http://www.renderosity.com/mod/freestuff/?item_id=64913
Frames with Mats
http://www.sharecg.com/v/41746/browse/11/Poser/Frames-with-mats
(also obj file with separate mats files)
Modern Living Room Furniture
http://www.sharecg.com/v/36890/browse/11/Poser/Modern-Living-Room-Fur
(includes art in frames but you could swap out the pics)
Morphing Picture Frame by EnglishBob
http://www.renderosity.com/mod/freestuff/?item_id=37859
Free Picture Frame Props by AdamThwaites
http://www.most-digital-creations.com/free_poser_poses_textures_morphs_props_4.htm
Picture Frame - 3D Model (obj format)
https://3dexport.com/3dmodel-picture-frame-58011.htm
gaku (site is in japanese, google translate is very helpful!)
http://www.poserclub.net/index.php/freebee/item/768-f480
picture in frame (38th item from top)
http://www.poserclub.net/index.php/freebee/item/768-f480
Hires Tile - wooden
http://www.sharecg.com/v/15343/browse/11/Poser/Hires-Tile-wooden
Picture Frames by Alexander_Kroener
http://www.renderosity.com/mod/freestuff/?item_id=8299
Wooden Picture Frame by seedydeedee
http://www.renderosity.com/mod/freestuff/?item_id=32594
Here is a useful shader for retexturing to a glossy plastic poster frame style finish:
http://www.sharecg.com/v/31573/Material-and-Shader/Super-Shine-Shader
And another shader for a metallic finish:
ULTIMATE SHADER PACK FOR DAZ STUDIO by georgehaze
http://www.renderosity.com/mod/freestuff/?item_id=66943
Well, the last picture I started about a week or so ago was more challenging than I thought it would be, mostly in the way of clothing not cooperating with the poses and, to be honest... the poses not cooperating with the poses. So round three I thought I'd start with a new reference photo that, is still on the dance theme, but with a bramd new set of models to doodle with.
It still needs some adjustments I think anyone might agreel. The ones that stand out and are on my to do list are his darn shoulder that just doesn't seem right for some reason. Also the shine across her pants inseam. Can't figure how to get rid of it. also slight hand adjustments. But I'm sure other things might be out of whack (major or minor) and if anyone notices things that might improve the render, I'd appreciate the help.
I had started then rejected at least 2 other reference/pose images for this contest.
Something I see with your male figure is his back at the waist needs to have a bit more bend. The male model looks like he is leaning forward and your male model is a little to upright. This might help with the issue you see in his shoulders.
It might also help with the male model's hands. In the reference image his hands are cupping her back. In your image the male's hands are to her side. He is holding her and keeping her from falling backwards.
I hope this makes sense.
Overall it is a very nice image.
Yuppers, I see what you mean Kismet about his back shape. Right now his body weight looks like it is going down instead of pulling backwards away from the female model. I'll also try adjusting her upper body size and maybe that will help to get the guys hands around her better. I knew there was a problem with the tension between the two models and I think your suggestions will help a lot.
I don't know if this will help with the roundness of the shoulders, I am not sure what character you are using, OR, if this will even be the right tool for fixing the issue even if it is for the right character... but just in case, here is a link to a freebie for Genesis that you or others might find helpful. I happen to have the aging morphs because I like to make older characters, and have enjoyed the shoulder drop morph. I was happy to see it as part of a freebie:
http://www.renderosity.com/mod/freestuff/?item_id=70378
If you could screenshot your settings for the pants surfaces, as well as your the xyz rotation and coordinates of your lights I will try plugging them in and fiddling and see if I can replicate the result, and if I can get it to do the same, see what I can do to eliminate it. You might try simply turning the default "plastic" surface setting to "matte", which I believe turns off all the things that create "reflection" gloss, specular and reflrection Also, try setting the lights to ambient only, this turns off specular as well, and if it makes the shine disappear you will know what the culprit is. Also- trying a cloth shader freebie preset might help change all the settings to something which is known to work.
Hope this helps... nothing to do with poses, but my brain is not in that "critical eye" mindspace right now... I am sitting in a hotel room on my laptop after a funeral trying to unwind...more on poses though later if you want. ;-)
Excellent work so far...you've managed to reproduce so many elements of the original image!
As far as the pose is concerned, it looks really good, but there are a few areas that could be improved a bit. The first I think is the angle and bending of her torso. In the reference image, her back seems fairly straight, even bent forward a bit right at her tummy. Her hip is close to vertical and her upper chest and shoulders are bent slightly forward. In your image, the hips are leaning forward and the upper chest and shoulders are thrown back. The difference is most obvious in her belly area. Her left thigh is also a little more bent in the reference image, and probably the knee as well (see how her left foot comes up to her right knee). And there are some significant differences in the hands that you're probably aware of already.
Sorry for the late response on this...I'm looking forward to seeing how this develops!
Looking very good...I completely agree that the two biggest issues are the shoulder and the clothing. It seems like the child is larger, relative to the chair, in your image versus the reference image. Scaling the child down slightly, or scaling the chair up, might allow you to bring the pose a bit closer to the reference, especially in the arm and also the angle of her torso. As far as the pose is concerned, the only other area in which I found a significant difference is the toes.
As far as the clothing is concerned, this will certainly pose a challenge. Using dynamic clothing would be one possible route, though not an easy one (possibly more feasible if you own the Dynamic Clothing Control plugin). OptiTex has some free dynamic clothes on their website if you want to give it a try; most of it is for Victoria 4, but might also work on similarly-sized Genesis or Genesis 2 figures. Another tactic that you might consider--not necessarily for the contest, as this is way beyond what we would expect of a "new user," particularly with not much time left before the end of the month--is taking the dress into a modeling program and making a custom morph for it, to match the character's pose (like what Aave Ninen did with the Morphing Fantasy Dress here). Again, that's more of a suggestion for a future goal rather than advice for the contest! An easier, though perhaps less satisfying, solution is to dress her in something more form-fitting, rather than trying to match the outfit in the painting.
Awesome work on these poses so far! As far as the male character is concerned, the only significant difference I see is in the facial expression. There might be a slight difference in the angle of the hips, too, but I'm not sure about that.
The female character's upper body looks spot-on. Her lower body I think is slightly twisted compared to the reference image; in fact I think her hips and legs may have been slightly closer to the reference in your previous render.
Overall the render is looking really strong, especially considering that you hadn't tackled lighting yet. The only non-pose, non-lighting issue I noticed was the little spheres by the female character's thighs. I think these might be clothing handles, and if so you should be able to make them invisible, either by selecting them and clicking the "eye" icon on the Scene pane, or by changing the opacity to 0% on the Surfaces pane.
Thanks for the feedback, Scott! In starting out down the 3Dpath, I found Blender before Daz, and tried some clothes modelling. I *might* have enough skill to import my figure and the dress into blender and rework the polys to make it comform better, but.... as you state, there is not a lot of time left and it is a LOT of work as I would probably have to make new uvs and then convert the texture maps. If I was REALLY in love with the kid wearing that particular dress I wouldn't mind doing the work, but as it stands.. I am not that much in love with it. She can wear some shorts lol.
I am currently trying to get the second pose to work with the kid leaning on a log. Good luck with that with... 6 days? Ha! But the image I am working on is one that I have been wanting to do for a long time and could fit into a number of different contest themes, so if I dont make it for this one, the pose might get... revisited.
As for my first image, I bit the bullet and submitted it. Someone has to go first, right? What follows has nothing to do with posing, but there had been discussion last month about postwork, so I am going to include before and after pics with an explanation of what I did... and how, hopefully, it improved(?) the image. Others can give me feedback on the success of the work done.
The file called "retexture" was the final render. The most important things I did to the image to make it work better were:
1. Darkening the color of the "snow" at the base of the figures to a darker grey. This was done by creating a new layer of just the snow, darkening it, and then playing with the opacity to get it to feel the right degree of light/dark.
2. Fixing the light effects to mask the fact that they were "planes" and make the lights surround the figure evenly on both sides. This was done by copying and pasting areas where I liked the lights into areas that were missing lights, and "smudging", "erasing" and changing the opacity til they matched what was there originally. I had to be careful to meet up with, but not go over, the bars of the snowglobe.
3. After doing these two things, I worked on the overall contast and tone. From the original image, the contrast is increased slightly, and using a feature called "auto smart tone" the overall middle tones of the image were darkened slightly, without blackening out the darks and making over bright whites like using contrast alone would create. Tone refers to the greyness of the image and can be changed to be lighter/darker OR more/less saturated.
The result of these 3 steps is the image "snowglobe glitter"
Once I was happy with the image, I worked on the borders. I don't know how others make a border, but I increase my canvas size by 24, 50 or so on pixels, create a new layer, move it to the back, and then choose a color from the image to use with the fill bucket. Sometimes I cut out a hole for the image, but generally not. When I worked in a frame shop, the rule for matting, in general, was light on dark and dark on light for the mat closest to the picture, and that this was the thinnest mat. 3/16 in was standard for a 11x14.. in computer land where all colors are made of pixels of light, this ratio feels a bit heavy. It depends on the image and how much contrast is created... and how all the framing layers work together.
The second mat should contrast with the first and have the wider border. (Twice to 3 times as wide as the first mat). I tend to use a color from the image for this as well in a muted tone. Other theories of framing say to use a muted tone complement for the second mat. *Shrug* This image used an analagous color scheme (colors side by side on the color wheel, in this case, the cool colors). Sticking to that range seemed to make sense.
Then, when I have created the "base" for the colors and thicknesses of the borders, I play around with them until I reach what I feel is a precarious balance.. you want there to be enough contrast with the image that the image "pops" without there being so much contrast that the frame is the thing that draws the eye. This is difficult and an area where I often over-do.
Finally, there is one last step to make image feel like it all is tied together. Some use programs like filter forge, I do it by hand. I choose a dark color from the image and create an edge mask. To do so, I make a layer the same size as the image, put it in front, and then use the "feather by x pixels" option on the rectangular marquee to cut a hole. How big a hole and how much feathering depends on the image. This creates a border with so soft an edge that it fades away without being noticable (hopefully). I control how thick this is, and how intense the transition is on the opacity, by both resizing the layer and by dialing the opacity up or down. Once it looks like the image is tied together, but this layer is practically invisible, I use the eraser tool set at a very faint setting, to erase any place where a hard edge might show. I also use the smude and blur tools to cover any hard edges.
Lastly, I add a sig, and save both the layered psd and a png version. Let me know how YOU do it! And if you think the fiona method "works" well.
Wonderful artwork from everyone. I'm still working away at this. Here is a new render from the Frazetta fairy image. I also took a try at another Frazetta character Vampirella. I have another also that I am working on and will have up in a couple of days. I have not decided which to enter for this as yet. Both images are Daz studio and Bryce combos with no post work on the remders. Suggestions and comments are always welcome.
Yes I did it, I gave colour and shine to the bike, if i had known before, how much time it would take to polish this bike, I guess I would have chosen a different picture to copy the pose, but here I am.
Many thanks to Blurst of time for the idea to make it a showroom where the posters are placed, an fiona who had that idea as well and a ton of nice freebies to help me go there (do you know them all by heart that you could come up with those so quickly?).
And I had the opportunity to give those supershine shaders that Kismet linked a good use after all, thanks for those as well.
I guess omebody with a great love for motorbikes will still find a lot to make better in that bike, but I definitly have put enough of my time in it,
So here is the result of those days in silent work, I'm rather happy with the result now, might tweak some small things here or there but end of month is not so far away after all.
Congrats to Fiona for the first entry entry, That has become a very special render, you have pushed the standart rather high with that.
But everone elses renders have come to look very good as well, and I like the thought of giving this month contest an artistic aspekt.
Kudos Linwelly, nicely done. You're the one setting the bar! :)
That first thing ist really funny and I have the impresssion that you captured the different parts exellently.
The vampirella ist very nice already as well. There are some details that might be hard to come by as the original is a drawn one.
Her legs are further apart and her right leg is still all straight. Maybe you can achieve this if you twist her right hip side to the front and then bending the leg more outward. The other thing that I see is that in the original the shouders are placed almost in a straight line over the hips, so you need to curve her body more towards the right. I guess there is a twist in her hole body, while the lower body / legs are turend right the upper body ist turned towards the viewer again.
I hope this helps, I guess it tricky to manage with the limits given by the body.
Thanks Linwelly for the suggestions. It I'll try to tweek the pose a bit more. The dress is a combo of a freebie from a couple of months ago with a sci-fi styled dress that I modified and changed the texture and the teeth I took off another model and the bat was an old model added too. The rest I imported into bryce from some of the Daz studio starter stuff and used various parts to build the set. I did notice while trying different characters posses that at times hand drawn perspectives can be hard to emulate because they are not always true. The ship in the fairy image I created four different models until I came up with the last one. Any way the ship in the painting has an odd perspective and was hard to recapture.
Thank you so much! I agree that it is you who are setting the bar. And moreover, it is you and your glass cylinder from last month that got me started on the interest in reflective surfaces... which is the motive behind the motive for me this month... so to speak. As for the list of freebies... I have a list of sites that I frequent regularly, and I figured having a list of free frames at my own fingertips might come in handy some time. I like stretching my google-fu for freebies, it is like a scavenger hunt... jeesh I thought I was going to hate the freebie list part of the freebie contest, but once I started doing it, it became its own little addicting game ;-) As for the motorcycle- the effort you have put into it has certainly paid off. I didn't realize that Ducati was a motorcycle brand name LOL. Shows what I know! Sure you dont want to work on shining up a car image for the freebie contest? Kismet would hug you too... *hugs*
This has come along very nicely! I think your poses would be easier to read if there was a way to set the characters off from the background, some? The background is somewhat busy and is making the characters hard to read. I was thinking more light in on the characters and a darker background, or perhaps using depth of field on to focus sharply on the characters and let the background get a little bit of blur? You have done so much to work on the poses, I want your characters to really"pop".
That's a really good idea, thanks! :) I was just getting ready to put the image in the entry thread when I decided to check my email first. Good thing I did :)
Something like this? Obviously blurred out the background, but took the Film ISO down from 300 to 250 (I didn't want to make it too dark)
Hello,
It's not the final one but i want to know if it could work for this contest ...
Thanks.
Hey all.. I've felt very unmotivated this month but decided to give things a go tonight.
I loaded Golden Rules onto the camera and set the original photo on it, then changed it's opacity to do tests...a bit clunky..not bad though.
I am feeling a bit constrained by the original picture, but ce la vie..
Welcome to the New User's Contest lord.siotrad.
I do not see any reason why this could not work for the contest
It looks to me like you have her legs quite close to the original image but I think her waist needs to be turned slightly towards the camera. In the original image we can see the model's right shoulder. Either that or your figure's right collar bone or possibly shoulder needs to be brought forward.
In the original image the model's right shoulder is a little more forward and her left shoulder is back a bit.
I am not sure if a rotation at the waist is needed or an adjustment to the shoulders.
I hope this helps.
This is a very interesting take on the contest. Definitely a challenge to translate the pose of a man to a dragon. Not something I had even considered or would be willing to try. :)
A couple of things I see is the warrior's right foot looks like it should be slightly straighter. You have a bit of a bend in the foot and in the image it is a bit straighter.
The warrior's right arm should be a little more open from the body to better match the reference image but I realize that your warrior is about to use the sword(?) on the dragon and having the arm a bit more open might not make sense in that context.
I think your dragon's pose matches the reference image quite well considering the differences in a dragon's physiology compared to a human's.
I wasn't originally going to have the dragon even be in a matching pose originally...as I was fiddling with fitting them in my first background choice, (which I've now abandoned) he just got close, and I decided...hey, might as well :D
On the arm (That's a Katar..shame on you for not knowing...) the move in the picture is called a "Superman punch" so I gave him a punch dagger...trying to balance the original pose, with making the katar use look right, with making it so you can tell what it is (too much of a profile, it looks like a metal line rather than a weapon)..
Thanks for the comments on the leg...with so much black in the scene, it's hard to get a really great view of just how they go...(boy, I'd love to be working with moldable holograms for this :D )